Adventures in Rajasthan

It has been far too long since my last blog... though I suppose some might argue quite the opposite! I am too far behind to catch up on all the blogs I intend to write, but am planning to begin chipping away at them. What follows is the first of my "catchin' up" blogs and my most recent blogworthy experience.

As has often been the case in previous blogs, this will be more like an illustrated book than a novel. Photography is about as close as I can get to releasing my artistic side without a canvas, brushes, and some paint. I hope you will find in these photos my love for people and my appreciation for architectural marvels (i.e. forts!). I continue to be amazed at the fact that God has created us in His image with such wonderful, creative minds and has give us ways to express ourselves in such marvelous ways... Soli Deo Gloria! Now, join me on a short, but majestic journey through Rajasthan!

First fort visited in Rajasthan - Amber Fort (Jaipur)

Where's the escalator?

View from the Amber Fort

Lake Palace... swimmers welcome

With only a day in Jaipur, there was hardly sufficient time to see all that there is to see there. I missed the Jaigarh Fort and sadly didn't get to do the Elephant Ride up to the Amber Fort. Nonetheless, Jaipur was a nice welcome to Rajasthan... next stop: Jodhpur!

My stay in Jodhpur lasted two days, which still wasn't sufficient, though it sure beat spending a day in Jaipur and another day in Udaipur! The Mehrangarh fort was impressive (enough so to have been filmed in the Dark Knight Rises) and the views were phenomenal. Just down from the fort was the Jaswant Thada, which is a memorial to one of the Maharajas. I'm beginning to realize that the stories I've read about the Maharajas are not made up--they were quite an eccentric group of characters! Now I know what is meant by the term, filthy stinking rich! I visited the Umaid Bhavan Palace, half of which was sold by the Maharaja to the Taj Hotel group and made into a luxury hotel. Having lunch there cost me a pretty penny, I mean, rupee, but was quite an experience.

Wandering through the streets of the Old City was one of the highlights in Jodhpur. My negotiating/bargaining skills need some serious work, so I only walked away with some tea that probably cost me at least twice what it should have... Everyone likes giving me the "white man's discount" for some reason. They all promise me their best price and I find it very difficult to resist at times. If only I had some clue about the actual value of goods over here!!

Entering the Jodhpur Fort

The life of a Maharaja must have been rough...

View of the Old City clock tower

Yeah, the Maharaja must've had a tough life!

I'm still trying to figure out why it's called the "Blue City"...

I think those pots are real... not just for show!

View from Jaswant Thada

Jaswant Thada memorial

Learning the difference between real and fake Saffron

The Spice-walla... i.e. Spice guy

Sardar Market

Every kid seems to love having their picture taken...

More of the market

A great lassi was found here (thanks to a buddy)

After two days in Jodhpur, before the grass could start growing under my feet, it was time to move on to Udaipur... This city was probably the most scenic of the three I visited in Rajasthan, primarily because of the lake views. If you've seen the James Bond movie, Octopussy, much of it was filmed in Udaipur. I was tempted to stay in the Lake Palace, but instead spent the night in a mediocre (but much cheaper) room that didn't even have a view of Lake Pichola. Wandering around Udaipur reminded me a bit of some European cities, though it was certainly not anywhere near as clean. Speaking of which, one memory of Udaipur I won't soon forget is the feeling I had after realizing that I had unintentionally killed a small rat that was attempting to gnaw on my ankle...

Near one of the bathing ghats

View of the enormous Shiv Niwas Palace

Note: no children were harmed in the clicking of this picture

Not a bad chill spot, huh?

Did I mention that kids like having their picture taken?

I wonder if those mangos taste as good as they look?

I'm a wanderer...

This is where I should have stayed...

Night falls over Udaipur

A small portion of the Shiv Niwas Palace

Will I ever regret not taking a dip in the lake?

So this is how they make my favorite Indian dessert... Gulab Jamun?

After visiting Rajasthan, I have a newfound appreciation for Psalm 18: 2...

The Lord is my rock and my fortress and my deliverer;

My God, my strength, in whom I will trust;
My shield and the horn of my salvation, my stronghold.

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…

The later part of this opening line from “A Tale of Two Cities” by Charles Dickens pretty much describes the last two weeks of my life. It has been an incredibly challenging few weeks for a number of reasons, not the least of which was the news that my mother has cancer. She has already had surgery, but we’re still waiting on a pathology report before the doctor can offer a prognosis. How in the world does one handle this kind of situation when living on the other side of the world?

Well, communication has certainly been very difficult at times, but the separation is softened by the fact that we are able to use video chat. In fact, I was able to “sit” in the waiting room with the rest of my family before my mom’s surgery. Then, as she made her way to the recovery room, my sister had her computer ready so that I could join with them in celebrating the completion of her surgery. Both my sisters and an aunt were with my mom and dad, offering their support and encouragement. Little did they know how blessed I was to see how God elevated them all above momentary affliction because I shared in their laughter and joy in that hospital room.

The last two weeks my life has for the most part revolved around phone calls and video chat, as I try to keep a close eye on my mom’s recovery. As a result, there have been a number of late nights and early mornings because the time difference is 12.5 hours! Couple sleep deprivation with a little anxiety and I feel as if I’ve been living in a something of a haze. However, in the midst of all these trials, I’ve come to realize how much our lives are truly like a vapor that is here today and gone tomorrow. God allows us only so much time on this earth.

Thankfully, I’ve been blessed by the myriad of friends who have expressed their care and concern for my family and me. People all over the world are praying for my mom and our family. It is humbling to think that our friends love us enough to intercede and pray on our behalf. However, it’s been even more comforting to experience God’s providential love that is shown by the way He draws near to us in our need.

The creator of the universe holds us in the palm of His hand, reminding us that He cares for even the little hairs on our heads (few as they may be in my case!). As I read 2 Corinthians 4:16-18 today in the midst of trying circumstances my faith was renewed:

So we do not lose heart. Though our outer self is wasting away, our inner self is being renewed day by day. For this light momentary affliction is preparing for us an eternal weight of glory beyond all comparison, as we look not to the things that are seen but to the things that are unseen. For the things that are seen are transient, but the things that are unseen are eternal.

Other passages like Isaiah 43, Psalm 34, and 2 Corinthians 1 provide comfort and assurance of God’s plans and purposes. Of course, there are many other passages as well and not surprisingly, a great number of songs too. I know that “Jesus never fails,” even as I find myself “leaning, leaning… leaning on the Everlasting Arms,” and being reminded that God is “our shelter from a stormy blast and our eternal home.” While my physical separation from my parent’s stings right now, it does not hold a candle to the spiritual unity we share in Christ. For now, we await the results of the pathology test and look forward to being reunited… Until then all I can say is…

Jesus! I am resting, resting

In the joy of what Thou art;

I am finding out the greatness

Of Thy loving heart.

Big hitter, the Lama...

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the drive to Dharamshala was much shorter than we had anticipated. It was supposed to take nearly 5 hours, but the roads were surprisingly good and so too was the traffic. As a result, we made the scenic drive through the sprawling green fields of Punjab, to the foothills of the Himalayas in about 3 hours. The cool, crisp, refreshing air and the roads winding through the Himalayan foothills reminded me of Colorado and Wyoming. Eventually we reached a fairly flat, high plain with a straight stretch of road lined with trees on either side. To our left, the bright green, rolling fields yielded to soaring, snow-capped peaks and I knew that we had reached the Himalayas. The contrast of the green fields and jagged, snowy peaks was magnificent. It was not long before we were making our way up a winding road to Dharamshala.

I had plans to meet friends of a friend, but unfortunately, they weren’t expecting me for another two hours! This created a little trouble for me, because I was not sure where to go or how I could not get a hold of these people. Eventually, with some assistance and a little frustration, I found their place, but then no one answered the door!

I finally found the place!

 Fortunately, after waiting about 10 minutes, they opened the front door of their flat and were a bit surprised to see me, but gladly invited me in.

Tasty lunch!

We talked briefly and then I got an offer to tour Macleod Ganj on the back of a two-wheeler (i.e. motorcycle). Of course, I couldn’t resist, so before long we were off climbing the winding road heading up the mountain to visit the Dalai Lama’s abode. On the way, we stopped at a small, old church in the wildwood. The few rays of sunlight beaming through gave the church an almost surreal or mystical appearance and the old colonial graveyard on the hillside nearby was a fascinating backdrop.

Church in the wildwood

Shortly after that stop, we rolled into Macleod Ganj. The streets there were lined with tourist shops that appeal to the many foreigners who travel from around the world to hear the Dalai Lama teach. Interestingly enough, we arrived at Lama’s complex just as he finished his afternoon teaching, so we had to swim upstream against wave after wave of Buddhist monks. 

We walked around the temple for about 10 minutes and after the Lama promised me “eternal consciousness” on my deathbed, we rejoined the departing throngs. I must say that despite the Buddhist reputation for being peaceful, they sure know how to push their way through the crowded streets--not all that unlike trying to move around on an Indian bus or train…

...and a curious sign just around the corner

Prayer wheels...

I promise, I'm doing my best to blend in...

Sunset over Macleod Ganj

Luke's view

We hopped on the bike and rode around a bit more, taking in the invigorating mountain air. As the sun began to set, we made our way down the mountain and to enjoy a delightful home-cooked meal. After an interesting and engaging conversation, I got ready for bed. My biggest concern was whether that I might freeze to death because there was no heat in the house! However, they gave me plenty of blankets to keep warm, so it was not quite like camping out under the stars.

In the morning, we had breakfast before hopping on the bike again to visit a Buddhist monastery that was run by another “Lama.” 

After that, we visited the peaceful Tibetan cultural center and before long I was on my way to the airport to catch my early afternoon flight. What a magnificent trip it had been and I left with a greater appreciation for the beauty of God’s creation… and a real desire to visit the beautiful land of Kashmir.

“Before the mountains were born or you brought forth the whole world, from everlasting to everlasting you are God.” Psalm 90:2

The Gora visits Punjab... pt deux

After leaving the Wagah Border, we set off for Gurdaspur and arrived by early evening the night before the wedding. My friend’s house is in the center of town and was as full of energy as the Wagah Border it seemed. A tent-like structure was setup on the roof so the men of the family and some close friends could gather and socialize. Of course the evening ended with some dancing, which meant that I was able to refine some of my Punjabi dance moves.

Later in the evening, my friend took us on a little tour of the city that included the “Little Flower Convent School” and an airplane of display that he described as “Toophunny” (or at least that’s what I thought he called it?)!  Then that night I had the distinct pleasure of staying in a hotel that was proud to be Gurdaspur’s “only 2-star hotel” (it was actually fairly comfortable in case you’re wondering). Though my time was short, I managed to met a lot of interesting, fun, and hospitable people in Gurdaspur.

The next morning we woke up early and drove to Batala for the wedding. It was interesting to see such a green and fertile countryside as I was naively expecting Punjab to be more dry and arid. Of course, that was before I came to know that Punjab means land of five rivers!

Gurdaspur

At any rate, after reaching the central area in Batala, our wedding procession stopped about a block away from the wedding pavilion. There, a colorfully decorated horse was waiting for the groom. After he climbed onto the horse, we followed the horse and rider into the pavilion area and were met by an Army band that was playing drums and bagpipes! Our entourage entered the large open area and then the families met and exchanged gifts, breakfast was served. Then 60-70 of us went to a nearby Sikh temple for the “official” marriage ceremony. There, the men sat on one side and the women on the other with the bride and groom sitting at the front. Everyone was seated on the floor with the Sikh book and the priest at the front. After the couple performed some rituals together and walked around the book a couple times, the short ceremony finished with some typical India “sweets” (something like warm cookie dough?) being passed around. Apart from being a fairly short ceremony, it was obviously quite a bit different than most of the wedding ceremonies I have attended. 

Afterward it was finished, we returned to the wedding pavilion to find the rest of the crowd (easily 500+) already socializing, eating, and drinking. Though we were outdoors and it was still afternoon, it did not take very long for the dancing to begin. The new couple entered the dance floor last and as they did, the rupee notes started flying. I was tempted to collect a few, but did not want to make a scene…

After the wedding ceremony, I reconnected with some of the gentlemen from the previous night, so when the reception concluded I was invited over to someone’s house. In a little more than 24 hours, I had made so many new friends that I was a bit disappointed to have to leave the next morning for Dharamshala…

to be continued…

“I will greatly rejoice in the LORD; my soul shall exult in my God, for he has clothed me with the garments of salvation; he has covered me with the robe of righteousness, 
as a bridegroom decks himself like a priest with a beautiful headdress, and as a bride adorns herself with her jewels.” Isaiah 61:10

The Gora visits Punjab, pt 1

My last days of 2011 in India were spent in the northern India state of Pun-jab, known as the “land of five rivers.” An invitation I had long been waiting for had finally come—an offer to attend a Punjabi wedding. For some time I had been told not to miss the opportunity to go to a Punjabi wedding, so when a dear friend and co-worker invited me to his brother’s wedding in Gurdaspur (Punjab), I knew there was no way I could miss it. Thus, I began thoroughly planning an ambitious trip that would ultimately become the most exciting adventure of 2012 for me.

With only 4 days to make the trip, I had to figure out the best plan of attack to see everything I wanted to see. This was complicated by the fact that I soon realized that Gurdaspur was nearly halfway between Amritsar (Punjab) and Dharamshala (Himachal Pradesh). An intriguing idea came into my mind to pay a visit to the Dalai Lama in search of “eternal consciousness,” to steal a line from Bill Murray in Caddyshack. Okay, so seeing the Dalai Lama might have been a bit of a stretch, but visiting Macleod Ganj where the he resides and the Tibetan government is in exile seemed like a realistic possibility. I set about to pull off the trip of the year and it certainly did not disappoint. Though the plane ticket to fly into Amritsar and out of Dharamsala were not cheap, the experience was incredible. It also took a great deal of coordination to maximize my limited time and without the help of a number of friends with good connections, I could not have managed such a fantastic trip. I really only had to worry about my flights and navigating my way to the accommodations in Dharamsala.

I took a big risk by catching an early morning flight to Delhi, which often has major delays due to fog during the winter. I also only had about an hour layover to catch my connecting flight to Amritsar. With that in mind, I did not check any luggage and just managed to hustle my way from the arrival terminal to the departure terminal to make the flight to Amritsar. I arrived shortly after 10am and upon exiting the airport terminal was met by my driver. He didn’t speak much English, but was pre-coordinated and pre-briefed on the day’s itinerary.

First view of the "Golden Temple"

He whisked me away straight to the “Golden Temple,” which is in the center of Amritsar and a good drive from the airport. This is the most important place of worship for Sikhs and a popular tourist attraction. The “Golden Temple” is surrounded on all sides by a large pool with a long, narrow causeway that leads to the entrance. Before entering the area, we were required to take off our shoes and cover our heads. The glistening gold temple is an impressive site that unfolds as you walk through walk a wide hallway that opens up into the temple area. White marble surrounds the pool and people wander or sit and meditate. Most end up waiting in line for probably at least 45-60 mins, but I was fortunate enough to get the VIP treatment and be escorted via the line of exiting visitors. The temple is not very large, but there are two floors. In the center, a number of priests sit while one reads or recites verses from the book that they worship. This book was compiled by the last of 10 gurus and is a collection of their writings, which is why the book is worshipped and revered. People crowd walk around or sit in the outer enclosure of the temple. Some make their way upstairs as we did to have a better view. 

Upon exiting, we circled around the pool on our way to the communal lunch. My friend had recommended eating lunch there and it did not disappoint. Everyone sits together on the floor and is served the same food, which is to be accepted graciously. It was a delicious meal, a lovely communal experience, and a wonderful reminder of how God intends for us to enjoy fellowship with one another. As a Christian, I believe that is why Jesus came... to reconcile us to God, to each other, and to God's creation, so this meal was a little taste of what I expect heaven will be like!

After leaving the temple area, we made our way to a memorial park where British troops had massacred hundreds of Punjabis in 1919 because they were part of the freedom movement. It is a large open courtyard surrounded by buildings, some of which still have bullet holes left in the walls. There is also a well into which many people jumped to escape the bullets.

With time winding down and a trip to the Pakistan border planned, we hit the road. It took us about an hour to reach the Wagah Border crossing and as we neared it, I was surprised to see hundreds of trucks filled with fruit and vegetables that were headed to Pakistan. We arrived just before sunset to see the flag lowering ceremony that is pretty colorful. I again was hooked up with a great view of the festivities. On either side of the border, large grandstands are set up for the masses of people who come to see the event and make patriotic cheers for country. The large iron gates are at the center of the foot-stomping and leg-kicking action. The emotional fervor shown by the marching guards was worthy of an Emmy. The whole thing lasted about an hour and ended as the sunset…

Ever tried to kick yourself in the face? Well then, I might have a job for you...

Does he know his weapon is on safety?

“From the rising of the sun to its setting, the name of the LORD is to be praised!” Psalm 113:3